Cabinets (again) - fixing

[FencepostError]

I'm now expecting my cabinet to be delivered this week. I plan to fix the back of it to a solid concrete (not breeze block/etc) concrete wall with expanding anchor bolts. However, I just noticed that one review of this model of cabinet talks about it flexing slightly when pulled hard as the back-fixing holes are all quite central (not terribly spread out).

(It's purported to be independently tested to BS7558 and police approved, so I'd think it would be ok!)

I'm wondering it I should additionally screw the base holes to the floor-boards below. I don't want to have to go into the joists. I know this wouldn't be a sufficient fixing on its own (not fabric of the building), but it seems a reasonable addition to bolting into concrete, to me, as it will only help spread the force and increase the security level. I'm wondering, though, if this would look dodgy on inspection - if they might assume I'd screwed into the floor boards because the rear bolts were only held in with stilton or something.

(Another alternative would be to drill additional holes in the back, but I'd rather avoid that trouble if I can.)

Any thoughts?

[Les]

I'm now expecting my cabinet to be delivered this week. I plan to fix the back of it to a solid concrete (not breeze block/etc) concrete wall with expanding anchor bolts. However, I just noticed that one review of this model of cabinet talks about it flexing slightly when pulled hard as the back-fixing holes are all quite central (not terribly spread out).

(It's purported to be independently tested to BS7558 and police approved, so I'd think it would be ok!)

I'm wondering it I should additionally screw the base holes to the floor-boards below. I don't want to have to go into the joists. I know this wouldn't be a sufficient fixing on its own (not fabric of the building), but it seems a reasonable addition to bolting into concrete, to me, as it will only help spread the force and increase the security level. I'm wondering, though, if this would look dodgy on inspection - if they might assume I'd screwed into the floor boards because the rear bolts were only held in with stilton or something.

(Another alternative would be to drill additional holes in the back, but I'd rather avoid that trouble if I can.)

Any thoughts?

If you use decent anchor bolts ... say, +/- 100mm/4" ... then you should be OK.

It certainly wouldn't hurt to use coach screws to fix it to the floorboards too. I bought another cabinet recently off ebay, which is supposed to be "Independently Tested" to the relevant British Standard, but I seriously doubt their claims, because it doesn't appear to be that well constructed.

It sounds like your cabinet would need new fixing holes drilling in the 4 corners at the back - the metal will probably be about 2mm thick, so it should be easy enough to drill.

[FencepostError]

I'm planning to use ~75mm anchor bolts as the wall is only 4in thick and I don't want to come through the other side :) Supplier suggested this should be suitable.

This one's the Burton GS10 - so not the most expensive but also not an unknown make.

I'm still undecided on putting some plywood underneath to help spread the load (tending against as I don't think it should be an issue) but if I was to do that then I'm guessing it would be advisable to screw through it and into the floorboards to help secure the plywood in place.

[20series]

I'm now expecting my cabinet to be delivered this week. I plan to fix the back of it to a solid concrete (not breeze block/etc) concrete wall with expanding anchor bolts. However, I just noticed that one review of this model of cabinet talks about it flexing slightly when pulled hard as the back-fixing holes are all quite central (not terribly spread out).

(It's purported to be independently tested to BS7558 and police approved, so I'd think it would be ok!)

I'm wondering it I should additionally screw the base holes to the floor-boards below. I don't want to have to go into the joists. I know this wouldn't be a sufficient fixing on its own (not fabric of the building), but it seems a reasonable addition to bolting into concrete, to me, as it will only help spread the force and increase the security level. I'm wondering, though, if this would look dodgy on inspection - if they might assume I'd screwed into the floor boards because the rear bolts were only held in with stilton or something.

(Another alternative would be to drill additional holes in the back, but I'd rather avoid that trouble if I can.)


Any thoughts?

If you've got it bolted in with 4 Rawl Bolts or Chem fixes into a concrete wall I wouldn't worry too much. At the end of the day it's about making it a solid fixing, if someone wants it that bad they'll find a way.

just my tuppence.

Alan

[FencepostError]

It arrived today and is now upstairs waiting to be bolted down.

Turns out it's really heavy (why isn't there a falling-over-exhausted emoticon?)

[20series]

pleased you're sorted

[FencepostError]

pleased you're sorted

Cheers :)

Though I've just noticed that the wall I'm fixing to is actually plastered hard concrete blocks rather than bare painted as I'd initially thought. Guessing RawlBolts should still work, so long as ensure the sleeve is deep enough that it's in the concrete and not the plaster!

(Apparently a "Thunderbolt" is an alternative, but seems less amenable to removing and refixing, if I ever needed to do that.)

[leeroy7031]

(Apparently a "Thunderbolt" is an alternative, but seems less amenable to removing and refixing, if I ever needed to do that.)

I use thunderbolts/multi month bolts, they are awesome for concrete block and brick and remove & refit very easily, moved from 3 houses with the same bolts. Don't over tighten though just until they are tight and a little more only!

[FencepostError]

(Apparently a "Thunderbolt" is an alternative, but seems less amenable to removing and refixing, if I ever needed to do that.)

I use thunderbolts/multi month bolts, they are awesome for concrete block and brick and remove & refit very easily, moved from 3 houses with the same bolts. Don't over tighten though just until they are tight and a little more only!

Thanks for the info - already sorted now with RawlBolts, though - seems pretty solid.

Now there's just the application, references... it all seems a bit of a slog at the moment!