Flash over prevention question

[bradaz11]

could well be, it is quite dense, but i was very happy with the results of grease under the ball

[redcat]

I used to make these from a mixture of beeswax and old candles. Experiment till you get the consistency you want. Placed between powder and ball they compress and seal the chamber effectively. Instructions with original Colt revolvers stated that you need not use any lubrication, on top of or behind the ball, if you used the correct size projectile. I'm not too sure about that guy's idea of chamfering the chamber mouths - whether you swage it or shave it you are still reducing the diameter of the ball the chamber size. I began to get annoyed half way through with his use of the word "slug", a bit like a cheap Western novel. They are either balls or bullets.
I now use a smokeless conversion muzzle loader with Alox lubed balls.



Redcat

[Triffid]

I use wads made from thick felt soaked in a mixture of lamb tallow, beeswax & paraffin wax and cut out using a cutter like redcat's. I dust them in flour to stop them sticking together and use one between the powder and ball. Previously I used standard grease (Halfords) spread over the top of the cylinder, but got bored with the mess!

I find the wads keep the fouling nice and soft and very easy to clean-up. Works for me anyway.

Triffid

[channel12]

Please explain the mechanism by which this "flashover" is caused. I ask because when a slightly over sized ball is seated over the powder a ring of lead is shaved off making the ball a perfect mechanical fit in the chamber somehow a spark is supposed to get passed this gas tight seal and ignite the powder in the chamber?

[Doz]

Please explain the mechanism by which this "flashover" is caused. I ask because when a slightly over sized ball is seated over the powder a ring of lead is shaved off making the ball a perfect mechanical fit in the chamber somehow a spark is supposed to get passed this gas tight seal and ignite the powder in the chamber?

Perhaps not quite in the spirit of this discussion but every flashover that I have come across at our club (including one of my own) has been from the nipple end of the cylinder, usually caused by loose or fallen-off caps. As you say, the ball is a damn good fit, plus we tend to use filler (semolina) between the ball and the powder. Add a bit of grease on top and there's no way a spark's going to get through at the business end!

[Mdwysc]

Everyone has an opinion, they all seem to be valid. Here's mine
If I'm being anal and have time I fill with powder then using a 357 case for a measure I fill the chamber with semolina. Place a ball on top and push it in flush with the cylinder. Then blow out the empty chambers and start again.
If I'm pushed for time, on a detail with centre fire rifles etc I fill with powder, push in a wonder wad with the 357 case and then shove ball in, making sure that no powder is above the wad or gets stuck around the ball. Give it a blow and load next.
MLAP insist on grease for comps but when I'm practising I don't use it.

[Ian]

I use the old fashioned way 'In the spirit of the original'.

Powder added to all six chambers, balls added and pressed onto powder on all chambers, tallow added up to the cylinder face, scraping level with a shaved twig or old lollipop stick.

I have never seen a ring fire in 40 years but heard of a few. One hot summer I made a 50/50 mix of tallow and beeswax (from my own bees) so it was firmer, it was hot that year but it was a lot of bother for nebulous returns. I would probably just go for pork dripping next time, beef dripping is too good to waste.

[whoowhoop]

I use a .357 case on the end of short dowel to ensure that I seat the lubed wad square in on top of the powder. I add a pre measured vial of polenta as a filler then seat the ball, which is then flush with the cylinder face.
I don't shoot any better, but feel it is as consistant a load as I can make it it.
Our club does not allow any grease over the ball.
One thing I do though is lightly smear the nipples with copper grease. It makes them easy to remove after shooting and gives a good seal.