No Gunsmithing Mount For No. 5 - Jungle Carbine

[TattooedGun]

It doesn't matter if you are not reloading for it. Its 30 minutes out of your life that will tell you what your bore is and whether or not you are wasting money buying PPU ammo.

But it does though, really.

And it's not just 30 minutes out of my life.

I'd need to research how to slug the bore, buy the relevant materials, slug the bore, then find out what to do with that information once I have it, and for a rifle I shoot 2 or 3 times a year for a bit of fun, it's all a bit of a non-starter.

The reason I don't reload is because the relatively small amount of ammo I use through this rifle means it's not worth the resources to get dies, powders and try to find the perfect load for it.

The rifle is a collector piece to me, just a bit of fun. I've got far too many rifles already that are all about precision.

So buying what ammo I can off the shelf for this rifle, what is slugging the bore going to tell me, and what could I do about it?

Do I need to take a chamber cast, too. Wouldn't that be more accurate information?

If I was shooting cast, which I might do in the future but nowhere near the present since I have other aspects of shooting to occupy my time, then perhaps I'd go down this rabbit hole.

[ovenpaa]

If you are using factory you are limited to the likes of PPV, S&B, Kynamco etc. I used to get good results with S&B in my 4(T) Have you tried supporting it a lot closer in towards the magazine which will reduce any potential for deflection (This is why it is a poor idea to use a bipod on Enfield) It looks like Caty was more on the money but with vertical stringing which does sort of support this theory. It could be that the barrel is genuinely buggered, it does happen and a quick squint with a bore scope and educated eyes can confirm this. Unless you plan on re-barreling this would only confirm your worst nightmare. Next job is try walking the accuracy in with the front trigger guard screw, people tend to wind the up far too tight.

If you are near the Wolds you are welcome to pop in for a coffee whilst I give it a once over.

[Alpha1]

I have the same mount its rock-solid I had it on a number 4 for a while and it worked fine. I have probably had the mount for at least ten years.
I took it off and reverted back to original sights. I keep it in a box in case I ever decide to refit it.

[GeeRam]

The rifle is a collector piece to me, just a bit of fun. I've got far too many rifles already that are all about precision.

If that's the case why are you worrying about the grouping you're getting, which frankly is OK at 100 yrds from my experience with my No.5, and with two other No.5's I've shot at 100 yrds.

Its a battle rifle, not a bloody target rifle.

[TattooedGun]

The rifle is a collector piece to me, just a bit of fun. I've got far too many rifles already that are all about precision.

If that's the case why are you worrying about the grouping you're getting, which frankly is OK at 100 yrds from my experience with my No.5, and with two other No.5's I've shot at 100 yrds.

Its a battle rifle, not a bloody target rifle.

Curiosity, see what it can do when I can see the target and have a repeatable sight picture not reliant on the course battle sights just to see how good the barrel is.

It doesn't have to be a target rifle, just intrigued what it can do. If that escapes you then I wonder why you own any rifles.

[ovenpaa]

If you want to know how well it shoots, bench it. Rests/bags front and back will give a very good indication of how it shoots. I always zero my rifles off a rest, well more accurately an old wooden ammunition box up front with the rifle resting on a squeeze bag. This gave me 5 touching shots at 50m on Friday with a BSA Model 15 with an as issued 1930 rifle in far from still conditions.

I also play nicely :)