Older Shotguns, Choke Reduction for Steel?

[millemigliadave]

Hi, I have a couple of old shotguns - a Baikal 27e O/U and a Franchi long recoil semi auto (think its an AL48 but not sure). Both have what seem to be very tight chokes. (measured with a caliper at the muzzle all three barrels are under 0.7 in.) I realise neither gun is worth much, however I would like to keep them, but with the possibility that clay shooting may well require steel shot before long, I would be concerned about shooting standard steel through such tight chokes.

My questions are:

1) am I right to be concerned about using steel through such tight chokes? Would be clay shooting loads only if that is relevant.
2) I can and will ask a local shop about cost for opening them up, but I would be interested in any rough estimate of this?
3) would the guns need reproof after having the chokes eased? (and any estimate of cost would be useful for this too)

Thanks in advance!

Dave

[Blackstuff]

1) 1/2 or Modified (Same thing) is the tightest choke normally recommended for steel
2) Sorry never had it done. When I contacted Teague about a rechoking I think it was in the £130 ballpark, but then would need to use their thin walled chokes which were about £80 a pop
3) I'd say yes, but anyone qualified to do the work should be able to confirm. The guns themselves need to be Steel Proofed as well. They should have a Fleur de Lis symbol next to the proofing stamp

[drone]

Reducing chokes on a barrel is straightforward for anyone with a modicum of common sense. I've done several both for myself and mates.
I bought an el cheapo chinese expanding reamer that has a mid range diameter of 18 mm for 12 bore, my methodology was to insert the reamer, at minimum diameter, into the muzzle and gradually increase it until it tightly fits the choke. Measure that with a micrometer not a caliper and then adjust it 0.005" at a time larger per cut until you approach your desired choke when you reduce the increments to 0.002" per cut until the amount of choke is what you want.
A point to bear in mind is that guns come from the factory with varying bore diameters, I've seen diameters from 0.719" to 0.740" so what's half choke on the latter is cylinder on the former.
In my experience, for steel shot around size 3 or 4 10 to 15 points of choke is good. TBH I've not used larger shot and the ones I've done for mates they found between 5 and 10 points of choke good for steel size 7 so I assume size 7 in tungsten would be ideal through that.
Once you've bought a reamer the world is your lobster, start with 20 points of choke and open the choke up more to suit your need if it is necessary. The first cut is the point of no return and once you've made that your confidence will grow. Now a word of caution, if the bores are plated, you're on your own. I've not done one.
Final comment the end of the barrel on my stevens pump gun looks like a radially ploughed field, whereas the end of the choke on my rem 1100 looks like a mirror, seems to make sod all difference, compared to good ammo vs cheap stuff.