Rog. Its probably Carbon Dioxide (Co2) or drycold has its comonly known.dodgyrog wrote:Dave FYI you can buy a spray can of stuff that plumbers use to freeze water in pipes where they cannot shut the water off. I have used it and vouch for it being f'ing cold. Mind your hands with it!
Sweating parts on
Moderator: dromia
Re: Sweating parts on
Re: Sweating parts on
Well I had not mentioned mounts, however Glevum is absolutely spot on. The pads for the No32 are/were soldered and screwed and this us a very similar application. More to the point I cannot see how these parts could be shrunk on. Give me another couple of weeks and I will post a picture or two.
Re: Sweating parts on
If you are talking about mounts thats a different story may be silver soldered.
Re: Sweating parts on
The process of sweating parts together is a soldering one, either soft or silver solder. The mating surfaces are first given a coating of solder, a process called "tinning". Then the parts are clamped together with a small amount of flux between them. Now heat the assembly. It's important that both parts are at the same temperature so an oven or a blowtorch with a big dispersed flame are used. The point of doing this is to control the amount of solder and get a large area of adhesion. Shotgun ribs and sight bases are attached this way, you get a very strong shock resistant joint and nothing to interfere with the bluing process.
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- dodgyrog
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Re: Sweating parts on
Usually lead solder DaveAlpha1 wrote:If you are talking about mounts thats a different story may be silver soldered.
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Re: Sweating parts on
I have only used soft solder in the past and here is a handy tip; solder will not adhere to blued surfaces which makes masking or removing excess solder a thing of the past. I also use super glue during the collimation process as the bases are easily knocked off if not quite right. When they are as required I carefully drill then tap. It is only at this point that any solder is used.
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Re: Sweating parts on
we havent used CO2 (in its solid form dry ice) in at least 20 years, the kit was too heavy and bulky for domestic use, the old domestic kits used R12 and R22 refrigerant, but those have been banned for at least as long, I'm not sure what the current refrigerant mix is only that it is considered safe for use.Alpha1 wrote:Rog. Its probably Carbon Dioxide (Co2) or drycold has its comonly known.dodgyrog wrote:Dave FYI you can buy a spray can of stuff that plumbers use to freeze water in pipes where they cannot shut the water off. I have used it and vouch for it being f'ing cold. Mind your hands with it!
I keep a tin on the van for those odd occasions where a bit of cold can help seperate stubborn items in places that heat cant be used (or even freezing pipes)
another heating specific use is lowering temperature sensors when its in the 30's C and the boiler decides you don't need the heating nothing like telling it its -30 outside to get it firing
Re: Sweating parts on
Could be liquid nitrogen or carbon doxide may be.
Re: Sweating parts on
I did a search out of curiosity most of the kits on the market are (Co2) carbon dioxide.
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Re: Sweating parts on
not sure what you searched for ? mine came out like this pipe freezing kitsAlpha1 wrote:I did a search out of curiosity most of the kits on the market are (Co2) carbon dioxide.
a lot of the commercial guys are now using electric pipe freezing kits , I think CO2 is very much "last century" technology now due to the difficulty of getting refills (yes I know you can get them, but not "off the shelf" at plumbers merchants)
for domestic use the Artic Hayes type are the most common in use, the electric units are expensive, heavy and unless you are using them all the time not really very attractive to the average plumber.
in fact other than myself and the people I work with I havent met another profesional for years who has even seen a CO2 set, let alone used one !
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