Firing pin or ?

[scraperman]

check the chamber lip to see if it has been peened over by dry firing, if it has than you can buy a chamber ironing tool to move the metal back to where it belongs, or (engineer types close your eyes) use a suitable sized taper punch and gently tap the chamber back into shape.
I had a 22WMR with the same problem, fixed it (had already tried cleaning, lubing and reducing the striking surface, with no real improvement, a couple of judicious taps and the problem went away, almost never missfired after that.

Thank you for that KennyC. I will have a look at that.

[andrew375]

My first action with a .22 that's misbehaving is to take it completely apart and give everything a good clean! You'll be amazed at how much crud is in there and where it's got. Make sure you get the firing pin out and completely flush through the breach block. Also, clean under the extractor and the extractor slot in the barrel face, the bolt might be being prevented from going fully forwards. This causes some of the impact energy that should be in the firing pin going into driving the bolt forwards.

[scraperman]

My first action with a .22 that's misbehaving is to take it completely apart and give everything a good clean! You'll be amazed at how much crud is in there and where it's got. Make sure you get the firing pin out and completely flush through the breach block. Also, clean under the extractor and the extractor slot in the barrel face, the bolt might be being prevented from going fully forwards. This causes some of the impact energy that should be in the firing pin going into driving the bolt forwards.

Thank you andrew375. I can understand that. The ammunition that I am using in this rifle is possibly over-lubricated and one time it was misfiring every 2nd or 3rd round. I cleaned the chamber as best I could and it worked much better after that. Hopefully someone will just give me a little guidance with reference to the last post of mine showing the two adverts and the very vague instructions regarding a take down.

[FredB]

The knurles takedown screw has a right hand thread---anti-clockwise to undo. The screw has a parallel portion which fits into a hole in the receiver---you need to unscrew it just far enough to clear this, so that the smaller threaded diameter will pass through the slotted hole. The complete front end, barrel / receiver, magazine etc then just pulls forward out of the trigger plate assembley which is retained in the stock. The bot will then slide out of the receiver, as will the magazine, slide handle etc, There are no real snags, but putting it back together is a little fiddley.
Fred

[scraperman]

The knurles takedown screw has a right hand thread---anti-clockwise to undo. The screw has a parallel portion which fits into a hole in the receiver---you need to unscrew it just far enough to clear this, so that the smaller threaded diameter will pass through the slotted hole. The complete front end, barrel / receiver, magazine etc then just pulls forward out of the trigger plate assembley which is retained in the stock. The bot will then slide out of the receiver, as will the magazine, slide handle etc, There are no real snags, but putting it back together is a little fiddley.
Fred

Thank you FredB, that's exactly what I wanted to know. I'll have a look at it later today and report back. Thanks again.

[scraperman]

Sorry FredB but I am hitting the same problem that I have before when I've tried a take down. I have tightened the screw and turned it back half a turn as per the instructions in my earlier image, I have tried turning the screw into different positions, and I still can't move the action, barrel, etc. But I have also turned the screw out as far as I can (without forcing it) and the image below hopefully shows that there is no problem with the screw itself. It is quite possible of course that the rifle has not been taken down for 80-90 years, maybe even since it was manufactured. I have tried normal force with my arms when attempting this, should I try some sort of leverage, or are there any other options ?

Thank you for your continued help (and patience !)

[FredB]

Your picture clearly shows that the screw is too far out: the narrow portion passes through the slot in the receiver. At this point, I usually give the action a taped with a rubber hammer to loosen everything up.
Fred

[scraperman]

Your picture clearly shows that the screw is too far out: the narrow portion passes through the slot in the receiver. At this point, I usually give the action a taped with a rubber hammer to loosen everything up.
Fred

Thank you. I actually only showed that image so that if anything looked wrong with the screw then someone could tell me. I assume that the screw actually holds the action in place by a"clamping" action because the screw doesn't actually go "through" anything other than what it screws into ? Now I will make another assumption. If I turn the screw clockwise until the end of it's travel, and then screw it say half a turn anti-clockwise then the barrel, action, slide, etc. is free to come away ? At which time I can use my rubber mallet to gently persuade it to part company. I'll try that later.

But I have been thinking about what andrew375 and 1066 wrote about crud being in the bolt area. The ammunition that I am using in this rifle is very very greasy. The ammunition that I use in my other rimfire (Remington & CCI Stinger) is bone dry in comparison. Has the gunk built up in the bolt and is now impeding the effectiveness ?

[1066]

But I have been thinking about what andrew375 and 1066 wrote about crud being in the bolt area. The ammunition that I am using in this rifle is very very greasy. The ammunition that I use in my other rimfire (Remington & CCI Stinger) is bone dry in comparison. Has the gunk built up in the bolt and is now impeding the effectiveness ?

.22 rimfire ammunition has always been dirty one way or another - Abrasive primer residue, unburnt powder and all sorts of lube, to be honest, I'm surprised it works at all with the best part of 100 years of solidified crud in the action.

I don't think you can make any progress until it's been totally stripped and deep cleaned.

[scraperman]

I don't think you can make any progress until it's been totally stripped and deep cleaned.

Yes, I think you are quite probably right about that. I mentioned that it is a family heirloom and as such has been used wherever the family happen to have been farming. If we all tell the truth it almost certainly won't have had the care that some of you guys give to your firearms. But when it works it's a cracking little thing. I have tesescopic sites and a sound moderatror on it (hence the sub-sonic ammunition) But I am still trying to dismantle it and I'm not getting anywhere with that at the moment. I have loosened the screw and smacked the area that I think I should smack with a rubber mallet and it hasn't even shown any sign of moving. I'm not that keen on hitting it any harder so is there any merit in loosening any of the other screws ? Thanks again Gentlemen, you are all being very helpful.
EDIT: Should the bolt be in any particular position when I'm trying to dismantle it ?