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Re: fixing safe

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 12:15 am
by FGarre
Hi
If it is a good one it should be OK. Some members of my clubs have "general use" safes and are OK.

You could check here: http://www.homeoffice.gov.uk/publicatio ... iew=Binary
ANEX-A talks about Cabinets and Safes:
...
Safes
13. Assuming they are physically capable of containing a firearm, commercially manufactured
safes may be considered suitable for the securing of firearms. Even early models, if tight and in
good condition, can provide physical protection that would be above that expected on a cabinet
constructed to BS7558. The following considerations should be applied as appropriate.
14. Safes weighing less than 20cwts should be secured in accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions, or in the case of one already possessed, that from a manufacturer or safe engineer.
15. Safes have a considerable floor loading implication. Advice must be sought for any proposal
to fit a safe other than on a solid ground floor.
16. To protect those safes with thinner plate backs, they must always be installed with the back
against a solid wall or be built into a wall or recess to prevent attack at the rear.
17. Where the safe is secured by driven boltwork, a single key lock or dial lock (either
combination or digital) is often provided. Unless there is some particular requirement, double
locking is not necessary.
...

Re: fixing safe

Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 6:30 pm
by HALODIN
I've just anchored my Sentry Safe G1055C with 4 x 100mm m10 coach bolts in to a 2 foot thick stone wall and then 2 x 40mm m8 coach bolts in to the floor, it isn't going anywhere. I was a relief when it was in.

I've just ordered some m10 bolt caps from EBay. Not pretty, but they should protect my rifles.

Re: fixing safe

Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:15 pm
by kennyc
food for thought, this is what a friend of mine uses in the States