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Would someone be kind enough to compile a comprehensive 'shopping list' of reloading equipment for me? I have a 'rough' idea but I don't want to miss anything...

• I'm looking to purchase a 'complete set-up' for the following calibres: 7.62x51, 5.56x45 and 7.62x39 (I use mil surp as a rule).

• My aim is to reproduce NATO/Russian standard ammo performance as a minimum.

• Budget substantial but not unlimited. Many have suggested Lee 'will do the job nicely' - and I'd be inclined to go with that due to cost savings. I'm not opposed to mixing it up a little though.

Lee Cast Classic press is a fine press to start with and will last you years, equally Lee dies give very good results. Add a priming tool, I prefer RCBS, a Vernier calliper is a must and some basic hand tools for cleaning, measuring and case preparation. Final reloading item is a pricey one, get an RCBS Chargemaster, it is quick and accurate and allows you to throw repeatable charges with ease.

I would avoid loading kits that have everything as they seldom do and you end up binning 70% of the items.

The other thing I deem to be a necessity is a good sturdy bench to work on that is well lit and in a location where you will not be distracted. Also invest in a reloading manual, ideally find a mentor to walk you through the process and beware Youtube videos as they are often misleading.

Many thanks. What dies will I need? I'm assuming to full length resize - but do I get 'Deluxe Rifle'? Pacesetter? Carbide? It's never too clear from descriptions.

Oh and what's 223 WSSM / 300 WSM?

Confusing!

If you don't want to stretch to a Chargemaster a set of RCBS 5-0-5 scales and a Target Master trickler would do an excellent job or if you're going anywhere near the USA the Hornady LnL auto powder dispenser is around $200 and does a good job (I have one).

You'll get better life out of your brass if you just neck size the brass once it's fire formed to your chamber, you will however have to do a full length resize every 5-6th time in my experience. I've bought the seating die, the neck sizing die and the full length resizing die for .308 and .260. If you have multiple rifles of the same caliber, I'd recommend a micrometer for your seating die, so you can dial the seating depth quickly. Carbide dies are for pistol calibers AFAIK and it means you don't have to use lube on the cases before you put them in to the die. The other advantage to just resizing the neck, is you can use Imperial dry neck lube, which isn't as messy and it's certainly quicker.

This is the kit I bought fairly recently. I'm not suggesting you buy this, but you can use it as a checklist. In contrast to David's comments above, I've found all of the kit to be excellent.

RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit
Shell holders - .308 + .44
RCBS Advanced powder measure stand
Hornady 2-die set in 308 Win
Hornady neck sizer die 308 Win
Hornady Microjust seating stem
Wilson case trimmer with micrometer & stand (kit)
Wilson case trimmer case holders (308 & 44)
Imperial dry case neck lube
Frankford Quick N-EZ Tumbler + Media Separator kit
5kg Walnut grit
.44 Rem mag die set
Hornady LNL press conversion kit
Hornady LNL die bushings (3 pack)
Hornady Sure-loc die rings (3 of)
RCBS Uniflow Powder Thrower micrometer
Redding powder trickler

## Extras ##
1 x RCBS die collet bullet puller
1 x Hornady LNL die bushing for RCBS die collet bullet puller
1 x digital caliper
1 x check weights
1 x inlinefabrication.com RCBS Rockchcucker press stand
1 x Sinclair pocket uniformer
2 x extra shell holders - .308 + .44 for hand priming tool
1 x RCBS baffle for powder thrower

SevenSixTwo wrote:Many thanks. What dies will I need? I'm assuming to full length resize - but do I get 'Deluxe Rifle'? Pacesetter? Carbide? It's never too clear from descriptions.

Oh and what's 223 WSSM / 300 WSM?

Confusing!

I am assuming you are just starting out at present you are totally confused.
Well no matter what calibre you are loading for you need and this is just my preference other people will have different ideas.
You are not shooting bench rest or F class YET.
So first of you need a press the Lee O frame cast press is popular and a good price buy one.
Buy a set of Lee full length dies in the calibre you want to reload the RGB set will do for starters I am not sure if they come with a shell holder if they don't buy one.
You need to prime your cases you can do it on the press or buy a hand priming tool. Don't buy the new Lee version they are total crap. Buy the RCBS one.
Buy a powder trickler any make.
Buy a powder funnel any make.
Buy a RCBS powder dispenser.
Buy some new brass PPU will do.
Buy some bullets PPU will do.
Buy some powder. Powder depends on calibre you want to reload.
Buy a target master powder dispenser.
Buy a RCBS powder scale.

PM me any questions you have and I will help you if I can.

THE TROLL.

Just a thought but can you reload 7.62x39 ammo cheaper than the price of milsurp?, at around £28 a hundred.I thought about reloading 54r (I have around 250 once fired brass cases) but I can get milsurp cheap enough and for the type of shooting I do milsurp does the job.

Thanks so far, chaps. Y'see - it's confusing innit?!

Notes:

• I'll be reloading spent GGG in the NATO with a possible alternative stock of PPU.
• I want to reload with 147 and 62gr FMJ bullets but I'm damned if I can find any. I appreciate the reasons why I should use other 'better' bullets but I want to use NATO bog-standard for now at least. I suspect this weight isn't readilly available because of the steel penetrators in the issued ammo? *shrugs* However, I do know that PPU do a 62gr ~ though I've never found it in the UK on search.

snayperskaya: Just a thought but can you reload 7.62x39 ammo cheaper than the price of milsurp?,

Nope. Probably not when it's commercially available. Worse things have happened, you see...

Why would you want to replicate military ammo when for the same money you can hand craft much better and more accurate ammunition and have the satisfaction of achieving much better groups down range. Military ammo is designed to inflict wounds on the opposition hand crafted ammunition is designed to give you tight groups at your chosen distance. Home loads do not have corrosive primers they go bang every time you pull the trigger. You will not make home loaded ammunition for the same price as military ammo. If your objective is to re create military ammo then save your money don't bother buying re loading gear just go buy military surplus.