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Hi All,

This is my first post - and I understand that I take all advice at my own risk....

I've been shooting lever action rifle, and loading my own for it for about 2 years. I had a Winchester 1894 (22") and was using .357 cases, CCI small pistol primers, TC 158 gr bullets and 4.5 gr of Vihtavuori N340 with reasonable results. I have recently changed to a Marlin (18") - As it had been 'tricked n slicked', I was advised not to use CCI primers, as they where too hard for a soft hammer (?), so switched to Remington spp (I also switched to RNFP bullets, just to try them). I found that I was getting a louder shot and more kick, so started to bring the load down. I have now found what seems to be the best 'target load' for 25 m; but it is 3.8 gr of N340....which is 0.7 gr under the starting load. Another problem is that since getting the Marlin, there is usually a bit of 'muzzel flash'.

So, questions:

Can the change of primers make that much difference?
Can the slighly deeper (when sticking to the crimping line) seating of the RNFP make any difference?
Most importantly, is the 3.8 gr load too low (due to detonation etc.)?
Also would using a faster burning powder (like Vit N320), due to the shorter barrel, cure the 'muzzle flash'?

I have read a bit about loading (as you do), but would like to use the wealth of experience on this forum to help with the ideal .357 25m target load; so any advice on this subject would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

John.

38 Special cases
Pistol primers
158G RNFP
3.6 Grains Vit N320

http://www.lapua.com/en/products/reload ... odata/6/27


http://www.lapua.com/en/products/reload ... odata/6/28

Welcome to the forum John.

Any changes in bullets, brass, primer, seating depth and powder will have an effect on accuracy.

I only shoot 357 in my Taurus revolver...my Marlin is 44mag, so you would be better waiting for one of the members with first hand experience to advice.

CCI primers work well in my Marlin, and just about every round I have reloaded...38sp, 357mag, 44mag, 223rem, 30/30 and 308win.

It is always advisable to work within the max mins shown in reloading manuals. I have Speer, Hornady, Hogden and Sierra manuals...the latter being the best IMHO.

For a Marlin 1894 18 1/2" barrel 1:16 twist 357mag brass CCI-550 primer 158 gr JSP N350 8.6gr vel 1400fps and 687 ft lbs. Starting load being 7.8gr.COAL 1.585"

But they recommend True Blue powder for accuracy.

HTH

For a Marlin 1894 18 1/2" barrel 1:16 twist 357mag brass CCI-550 primer 158 gr JSP N350 8.6gr vel 1400fps and 687 ft lbs. Starting load being 7.8gr.COAL 1.585"

I think that load is for JACKETED soft point bullets not cast bullets.
He said he switched to RNFP bullets these are normally cast need to know are you using cast boolits or jacketed it makes a difference.

Viht 340 is for magnum loads and not ideal for light loads as it is slow burning relative to Viht 310 and Viht 320.
I would advise a starting load of Viht 320 around 3.5 gr and work up from there until the group sizes minimise.
Refer to published loading data ALWAYS and don't reduce below the minimum quoted, nor exceed the maximums.
My question would be why use squib loads in the first place? Don't you like the bang and the recoil - that's the best bit!

Dougan wrote:
Can the change of primers make that much difference?
Can the slighly deeper (when sticking to the crimping line) seating of the RNFP make any difference?
Most importantly, is the 3.8 gr load too low (due to detonation etc.)?
Also would using a faster burning powder (like Vit N320), due to the shorter barrel, cure the 'muzzle flash'?

I have read a bit about loading (as you do), but would like to use the wealth of experience on this forum to help with the ideal .357 25m target load; so any advice on this subject would be much appreciated.

Welcome to the forum John,

CCI primers should be OK but they are reasonably hard to start with, the CCI BR being even harder. Magtech LR primers are a lot softer and cheap if you can get hold of them.
Yes primers will make a difference especially on such a low load and personally I would at least bring it up to the minimum recommended as you can see serious over pressure when running low
Longer COAL (Overall Length) will reduce pressure slightly and shorter COAL will increase pressure.

Welcome to the forum John.

We have a wealth of knowledge on this forum, feel free to ask!

I have a Marlin in .357 stainless steel tricked n slicked and use CCI primers with no problems at all

ovenpaa wrote:
Longer COAL (Overall Length) will reduce pressure slightly and shorter COAL will increase pressure.

Have you got that the right way around, ovenpaa???