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I have 4 Nitro converted Muzzle Loaders, Just ordered a pair of Ruger Old Army in Stainless for use with Black Powder. At our range nearly everyone uses Flaskes. So wanted suggestions as to what I need: I think I need 1 Flask Black Powder, 1 Flask Semolina, Jar of sealing lub. Any one have other thoughts plus what load of BP would you use?

Applied for my explosive licence and ordered my Powder storage of Kranks.

So think I would have the basic setup for my first shoot.

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qws wrote:I have 4 Nitro converted Muzzle Loaders, Just ordered a pair of Ruger Old Army in Stainless for use with Black Powder. At our range nearly everyone uses Flaskes. So wanted suggestions as to what I need: I think I need 1 Flask Black Powder, 1 Flask Semolina, Jar of sealing lub. Any one have other thoughts plus what load of BP would you use?

Applied for my explosive licence and ordered my Powder storage of Kranks.

So think I would have the basic setup for my first shoot.

?????????????????/

Flasks seem to be falling out of favour - Individual pre-measured vials are now required on many ranges.

Flasks are not allowed on some ranges, although the main risk seems to be with flintlocks. There have been instances of pan priming flasks exploding.
If you look at Jeff Tanner's web page---Jeff has sadly moved on to the reat range in the sky, but his son still runs the business--you will find a low cost and superbly made powder dispenser which is used with a standard brass measure to fill phials.
Fred

For a long while now I ditched everything in ML revolvers, except for proper BP and a tight fitting ball. Honestly, you’ll be amazed at the difference. Wax smeared over the ball does nothing than keep fouling moist for ease of cleaning. Chain ignition happens at the rear of the cylinder because of loose fitting caps.

A baby wipe in the loop of a rod shoved down the Bore and a swab of each chamber after each detail or before the trip home is great for keeping fouling to a minimum before proper cleaning.

Burnt powder gas, unburnt powder, semolina gas and unburnt desert with a lead ball and a dollop of grease all chugging down a barrel..... and people wonder why BP revolvers have a reputation for being inaccurate.

I agree with Sim. When I first started off I took my cue from the other guys on the range.
Powder, semolina, wad, ball, grease on top. Took me ages fiddle-faddling a load together. Not that accurate.
A short while on I got tired of all the flummery.

Powder, lubed wad (to reduce fouling), ball tight enough to produce a perfect lead ring shaving. And that's it.
I sometimes use a flask to measure my powder. Mostly though I prefer to use a Lee reloading powder measure to fill a hundred cheap plastic test tubes with BP before I go to the range.
I use the tubes because it's quicker to have pre measured loads than it is to put a lolly-pop stick over the flask nozzle prior to upending it (more consistent than using my thumb) and a visual check to make sure I'm not under-charging.

Oh, and yes, you read that right I use a Lee reloading powder measure to dole out my charge by grains weight rather than grains volume. I spent some time measuring the correct charge by volume (using the usual measuring tube) then weighed it over a batch of ten samples to get a reliable average figure for consistency by weight. On our range we can only use BP substitute and so I only ever use the same powder Hodgdon Triple Seven. Once I made the switch from old timey loading to modern I started taking medals.

A nitro conversion is next on the cards - simplifies the loading still further.

Dark Skies wrote:... Mostly though I prefer to use a Lee reloading powder measure to fill a hundred cheap plastic test tubes with BP before I go to the range.

Correction - that should have read BP substitute.

And for some reason 'lo11ypop' has a stupid 'lol' emoticon - which is annoying.

Thanks for all the advice. I like the idea of a Flask, but preprepared vials seems logical, as it can be done at home. Using a lub wad and a 457 tight ball seems a lot less fussy than all the wax sealer.

I am getting a pair of stainless steel Rugers that I plan to clean in my large ultrasonic, take the handles off and drop the whole pistol in for cleaning, what does everyone think of this idea, if so what would you add to the water to act as a BP cleaner? Once clean what is your suggestions for oiling prior to the next shoot?

Thanks

qws wrote:Thanks for all the advice. I like the idea of a Flask, but preprepared vials seems logical, as it can be done at home. Using a lub wad and a 457 tight ball seems a lot less fussy than all the wax sealer.

I am getting a pair of stainless steel Rugers that I plan to clean in my large ultrasonic, take the handles off and drop the whole pistol in for cleaning, what does everyone think of this idea, if so what would you add to the water to act as a BP cleaner? Once clean what is your suggestions for oiling prior to the next shoot?

Thanks

A friend of mine sticks his stainless steel Ruger in the dishwasher with the grips removed. Seems to work.a
A hint of oil in all the right places.

Can't disagree with Sim.
I weigh out my BP charges using a cheap digital scale off Ebay. It's not like smokeless so give or take .2g isn't a problem.

Cleaning, warm soapy water, cylinder out, nipples out, they are only finger tight, scrub out with a bottle brush. Arbour and ram rod only wiped clean. Barrel flushed under hot tap and scrub with soapy water. Any external fouling wiped off using screen wash concentrate. Oil and reassemble 20 minutes tops.

I prefer the use of vials, more consistent loads for both revolver and rifle.
Found some very good ones on Ebay, nice and cheap for large quantities.
Loading time on the range is not hindered by the use of vials, but that's just my opinion.
I do you use flask to pour from when loading up the vials.

Loading up the vials at home.