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Hey all,

Before I start down the .308 reloading route, I was wondering what people's thoughts were on loading straight to a recipe specified by Lapua as an 'accuracy load'?

The bullets in question are Lapua 155gr Silver Scenars with the Silver Jacket. They say, with N140, to use 45.5gr of N140 to achieve a velocity of 2,805fps. I'm using TR140...

Edit: here's a link to the page - http://www.lapua.com/en/products/reload ... odata/5/70 - the data is about half way down.

I know the advised wisdom is to build up to a load so my questions are: do I need to in this case? if so, by what amounts should I work the load up?


Thanks!

Hmm

I've just run the figures - I would work it up to that!!

The Vit' manual gives a max load for that round/powder of 43.6! (for N140)

Mike

Dr. Strangelove wrote:Hey all,

Before I start down the .308 reloading route, I was wondering what people's thoughts were on loading straight to a recipe specified by Lapua as an 'accuracy load'?

The bullets in question are Lapua 155gr Silver Scenars with the Silver Jacket. They say, with N140, to use 45.5gr of N140 to achieve a velocity of 2,805fps. I'm using TR140...

Edit: here's a link to the page - http://www.lapua.com/en/products/reload ... odata/5/70 - the data is about half way down.

I know the advised wisdom is to build up to a load so my questions are: do I need to in this case? if so, by what amounts should I work the load up?


Thanks!

Slow down ... that is quoted as a MAX load! It will probably be OK but NEVER take a load from anyone else or jump straight to MAx...... for 1 it can be dangerous in your gun...... for 2 you will likely miss accuracy nodes along teh way.

It Ain't worth the risk to be lazy... work up!

Current Lapua/Vit manual (online) gives (with N140) 41gr starting load up to the 45.5 which is (as said) their accuracy load but also the maximum recommended load. This is based on using Lapua brass and as I'm sure you're aware different cases will have slightly different internal volume.

http://www.lapua.com/en/products/reload ... odata/5/70

I've used the 167gr Scenar and Scenar SJ Moly coated with N140 and got best results at 41gr and 42.5gr respectively. I'd start at 41gr and do 10 rounds each at .5gr increments, anything from 44gr and upwards I'd check the cases for signs of over pressure.

Fast is not always more accurate. I shoot a very lazy 167 Scenar for McQueen and shoot a fairly hot 155 Scenar (Moly coated) for 1000+ So what distances will be shooting at?

ovenpaa wrote: So what distances will be shooting at?

I think 1000yds will be my maximum at this stage in the game!


Thanks for the replies all!

Somewhere in every reloading manual, on every pukka website, forum, discussion, club etc. you will find words like:-

'ALWAYS start at least 10 per cent below the maximum recommended load'

Always means just that.

If you are a 'new' reloader, read the book, do what you have done now and ask, we are all always delighted to help.

If in ANY doubt, check, ask, confirm.

Always!

Best of luck with the reloading, you will never have enough kit :lol:

Let us know how you progress.

:cheers:

As others have said work your loads up, .5gr increments is always a good way to go. You Don,t say what rifle/action you are using as this has a big effect on signs of pressure. If possible 'chrono' your loads as you work up.
As an aside Lapua maybe stopping manufacture of the 'Silver Scenars' so buy as many as you can if you are going down that route. I have found that the Sierra 2156 155 is equal to the Scenar and a darn sight cheaper.

Steve

I found no difference between the moly and non-moly versions of the Scenars or Hornady A-Max as far as grouping was concerned. I ended up using Nosler Custom Competition which perform just as well (for me) and they were considerably cheaper

You say you are using TR140 is that equivelant to N140 there might be a difference.