Starting to cast your own boolits

[ovenpaa]

I have some .315" 190's coming from Dodgyrog and look forward to feeding my 4(T) and possibly my P14 with them, however a conversation with Rog the other night made me realise there is a lot more to this than meets the eye. So if I was looking to build my own what would be the minimum equipment required to cast and size my own boolits, what is they typical cost and is such equipment available S/H and should I consider it?

I am quite happy dealing with the brass side of things so it is only the boolits I am interested in.

[Robin128]

Cost doesn't figure at all...its the journey that counts.

Same with condom bullits innit?

[Alpha1]

I would not rush out and buy any thing just yet.
Load and shoot the boolits you got from Dodgyrog first. Ask Adam to suggest load data.
The first thing you need to do if you have not all ready is slug your bore.

[ovenpaa]

Cost doesn't figure at all...its the journey that counts.

Same with condom bullits innit?

Cost does count, I/we have spent a fortune on reloading equipment over the years,some very good and some not suited to our needs, methods of throwing and measuring powder being a good example. The number of jacketed bullets we load every year is certainly 1000+ and the exact figure is probably at Christels finger tips in the log book.

The tools and processes you use are something that develops with time and my list would be a lot cheaper were I to start again. I am sure cast boolits are the same, I would just prefer not to buy half the catalogue to get the result, plus I doubt I will shoot more than a couple of hundred a year so building my own would be to satisfy my need to learn plus the search for better accuracy by using single bespoke molds etc.

[ovenpaa]

I would not rush out and buy any thing just yet.
Load and shoot the boolits you got from Dodgyrog first. Ask Adam to suggest load data.
The first thing you need to do if you have not all ready is slug your bore.

I have built some molds, got agreement to use the kitchen ladle and have some nice new lead awaiting the deed. So I should get it done over the next day or two.

Rog was explaining Dromias's method of cold casting chambers, hopefully he will be along in a minute to explain more.

[Alpha1]

When you say you have some nice new lead is that pure lead you are talking about.
You have built some moulds tell me more.

[dromia]

You don't need much bespoke kit to start.

You'll need a heat source camping gas stove is fine, I use an army surplus cooks gas stove bought for £25 for melting down my alloys and dipping.

A pot of some sort, cast iron from a car boot sale for a couple of quid, don't get the ones with the rotating handles though.

An old slotted spoon for stirring the melt and lifting off crud if you are alloying.

A nice dry stick for fluxing.

Some slivers of the stick for temperature control.

You will need a good ladle, the Lyman and the RCBS are both good, do not even think about the Lee.

A mould suitable for your purpose.

Some synthetic two stroke oil to lube the mould and cotton bubs to apply it with. Cotton buds are also useful for clening the mould.

Boolit lube.

Gas checks if your mould needs them.

Sizing is not really necessary if your mould drops a bit over groove diameter.

Baking trays and such like for pan lubing.

Tupperware bowl if you are using Xlox, you'll also need some white spirit.

Gloves and eye protection as well as thickish clothing preferably natural fibre. Do not wear, flip flops, slippers or thongs whilst casting.

A stick for tapping open the sprue plate.

Some toweling to drop the boolits on and box to catch the sprues.

A tool box of tools and some heat resistant epoxy if you are using Lee moulds.

Brake cleaner, degreaser, isoprophyl alcohol, acetone or such like to clean and degrease the mould if new or oiled.

We I use iron moulds then I find a blow torch handy for getting the mould up to temperature, although doing so is not recommended and will surely invalidate any warranty you may have on the mould.

Brass and Aluminium you can just dip in the melt to heat up.

An airy space if you are cleaning alloy as the crud can smoke.

Not much really as you'll probably have the majority of stuff lying around.

[ovenpaa]

When you say you have some nice new lead is that pure lead you are talking about.
You have built some moulds tell me more.

Lead flashing from my son, brand new off the roll, the mould for slugs is a piece of oak lovingly drilled with moulds and small ejector ports on the back in case it fails to eject the slugs.

[dromia]

When making your slugs don't have the melt to hot, just above slush point is fine.

Your not looking for beauty here.

[ovenpaa]

You don't need much bespoke kit to start.

A nice dry stick for fluxing.
Some slivers of the stick for temperature control.
Gloves and eye protection as well as thickish clothing preferably natural fibre. Do not wear, flip flops, slippers or thongs whilst casting.
Brass and Aluminium you can just dip in the melt to heat up..

You mean a normal wooden stick for fluxing?
Who told you I wear thong???
I have brass and aluminium, what purpose does it serve when dipped in?