Gun Safe Fixing (Help)

[S1M]

I went with rawlbolts in the back of the cabinet (m10x80mm) and some coach bolts for the floor, reasonably cheap from screwfix
I would recommend not going for a cheap brand

[Kungfugerbil]

I went for the bolts that Ovenpaa linked but in M10; they went in easily enough but there is no way they are moving any time soon. I fixed 6 in a 7-gun safe, and put four holes in the bottom and went down (through metal spacers) into joists/noggins

If we have an earthquake I might put the kids in it

[Rockhopper]

I must have been unlucky with both my safes as when I drill into the wall i seem to hit the very edge of a brick and the drill skids off into the mortar which means the holes then don't line up. What a PITA that is.....

[pbrazendale]

Kungfugerbill, when you used the M10 version of the bolts what size hole did you drill?

After reading some more I'm going to give those Fischer bolts a go Ovenpaa linked to, however like you will go for M10.


Sent from my boing using "An application"

[ovenpaa]

Apologies, I did mean to link the 10,0mm version which is what I use here, I also use them to bolt down machines and from memory even the big Mill is only held down with 12,0mm fixings.

[Kungfugerbil]

Kungfugerbill, when you used the M10 version of the bolts what size hole did you drill?

12mm hole. The anchor body itself is 12mm for the M10 variant and you want it to be snug. Make sure you vac or scrape out the dust after drilling or you won't get the full depth.

[kennyc]

Kungfugerbill, when you used the M10 version of the bolts what size hole did you drill?

After reading some more I'm going to give those Fischer bolts a go Ovenpaa linked to, however like you will go for M10.


Sent from my boing using "An application"

you could call Fischers help line 01491 827920 they have always been helpful in the past, also the instructions that come with the fixings will give drill sizes installation help

[GeeRam]

Kungfugerbill, when you used the M10 version of the bolts what size hole did you drill?

Make sure you vac or scrape out the dust after drilling or you won't get the full depth.

This is very important.

You might find your vac won't suck out enough from the bottom of the holes, as they are too narrow, so if you can, blow out holes with air, such as one of those IT compressed air cans, or a foot pump with a cone air bed attachment will work a treat as well.

[Pete]

I used 6 of these 100mm long. http://www.heco-schrauben.de/en/Screws/ ... duct-range
My place is pre-war with the bricks stuck together with lime mortar. A bit of careful surveying by drilliing small holes through the plaster located the actual solid bricks, which I then outlined on the wall prior to offering the cabinet up on a small bottle-jack. Two of the pre-drilled holes coincided with the centre of a brick. The other four were drilled through the back of the cabinet after measuring to locate them in the centre of bricks.
Then with cabinet in situ, drill appropriate sized holes through the back of the cabinet, blow the dust out of the holes add penny washers and wind the bolts in with a socket.
Screwfix sell these concrete self-tappers, although not genuine multi-monti's.
The big advantage is that the bolts can be placed close to the edge of a brick without splitting it. The expanding type fixings are not as good in older properties with soft bricks/breeze walls.

Pete

[Mattnall]

Another bit of advice...I tend to use a socket set with extension bar = gives better leverage when fastening the bolts, compared to a spanner

Be careful with doing up the expanding bolts too much, I know of one club member who cracked his wall when he went too far, it was an internal wall but of brick.
You don't need to be too tight, just tight enough