Wood worker needed for Mauser stock

[Tower75]

Hi guys and girls, firstly, apologies - I've posted this elsewhere so those who visit other forums might find this twice, just putting it out there, trying to get all the info I can.

What I have is a German barrelled action, G1898, which is currently sitting in a Czech 98/22 stock.

There are two issues I have with it.

1) There are two cut-outs in the stock, intended for the Czech handguard, the German stock does not use a handguard that requires these cut-outs, and as such I have two inert cuts in my stock, and my brain is screaming "Errors, Errors, should not be there!" Is there any way to "fill them" without putting pressure on the barrel?

I wouldn't be doing it myself, as my engineering skills runs true with the comment; "If you cannot fix it with a hammer it's an electrical problem"

If it can be done I'd give it to a woodsmith... is that a word, anyway, if these slots cannot be filled I wont bother.







2) Another issue is that the buttplate is loose, and looking at the wood where the screws bite it looks like the wood is damaged and the screws are having trouble gripping the wood. What could be done here?





2a) The front barrel band spring is a very tight fit in the wood and its "springiness" is being interrupted by the wood. Would I just need to file away some of the wood?



Thanks for looking, guys.

Regards
T

[ovenpaa]

The screws in the butt are easy enough, open the holes, let in some new wood, re-drill and screw the plate back on. The ones either side of the receiver... either leave alone of find a similar wood and let two new bits in, then trim back to the original stock, downside is restoring the lovely patina of many years. Front end.. no idea as I have never worked on a Mauser so I have no view on the correct tension.

[Dave 101]

Hi Tower

I can take a look at it for you .

Dave

[FarmerSim]

1), The two cutouts in the stock could be relatively easy to deal with. BUT, you will probably have to accept a trade off between the longevity of the repair, and how much material removal you would accept from the stock - thin slivers of wood would be easier and quicker to fit, but harder to make stay put. If I was doing the job, I would want to insert a minimum of 2-3mm into the "slot", and glue it in with a two pack epoxy. It would be worth sealing the area afterwards to stop damp setting up any stresses in the "grafts" I can't tell from the pics what the wood is, but (obviously?), you would want to use the same species, and hopefully a similar grain density to minimise said stresses. From the pics, if I am reading them right, I can see no reason why the "grafts" could not clear the barrel. If you can't insert 2-3mm, then you could mix appropriate sawdust with said two pack, and spread liberally in the "hole", then "machine" to suit afterwards. The greatest effect on longevity of the repair will probably be how clean the area can be made before any glue goes near. It may also be very difficult to match the finish of old and new...

2),The Butt plate is, IMHO, the easier to fix:- something along the lines

http://brass-moulding-inserts.brass-cop ... nserts.htm

For a nicer job, you make like to make a simple jig to make sure the "widgets" are square and to the right centres. Alternatively, you just let in some new wood, and re-drill in the right place...

2a) Not sure about this one, simply because I don't know enough about Mausers to understand the issue. I would suspect that there may be an underlying cause to the stiffness (!), someone else will be far better placed to advise you..

ATB

Sim

[bnz41]

Hi Tower.75

Just a thought the front band spring could be one from a K98 which is slightly thicker & wider, so careful removal of the wood may be your only option. I would use a neddle file, equal amounts from top and bottom & inside of the wood. Unless you could find an original spring. Does the spring sit at the correct depth ? ie the pin through to the other side.

[Tower75]

Cheers for the info and offers, guys.

So, is the general consenus that I would be a prat if I tried to "fix" the stock?

Hi Tower

I can take a look at it for you .

Dave

Cheers, mate. Speak to you later about that.

Just a thought the front band spring could be one from a K98

Quite possibly. I knew I was buying a G98 that was made up of spare parts, but I didn't really give much thought to the idea that not all parts would be from a G98

[Tower75]

Ok chaps and chapettes.

New tactic, does anyone know if a Czech 98/22 handguard would fit over the "rolla-coaster" sights?

If "yes, they would" who's got one and how much