Cleaning a Taurus LBR

[HALODIN]

Hello,

I'm ashamed to say I haven't cleaned my Taurus LBR since I've had it and it's got so bad the cylinder is difficult to turn and the hammer is difficult to pull back. I've got some KG1 carbon remover, KG4 gun oil and a pro-shot brass toothbrush at hand ready for the job.

Any top tips?

Cheers,

Craig.

[HALODIN]

I've tried a patch on the frame and it's very slow to take the carbon off, but I'm conscious I might damage the satin finish with a brush. Is it OK to use a brass brush on the outside of the LBR?

[Blackstuff]

I used bronze brushes on the outside of mine when i had it and it didn't do it any harm (obviously don't go beserk though!)

[Les]

Try using a hard toothbrush first - the bronze brush might affect the external bluing, or it might not. I use Parker Hale 009 to remove powder residue, and it works very well.

[Sim G]

Strip it down. The screw on the right side of the frame releases the cylinder. Be careful of the Spring and plunger when you take the yoke out of the frame. Soak the cylinder in lighter fluid over night. Take the grips off and make sure crap hasn't accumulated round the mainspring from blowback through the frame of carbon and stuff. Take the side plate off and use a nylon toothbrush dipped in lighter fluid.

A small wad made from cleaning patches dipped in lighter fluid should clean the outside of the cylinder leaving the finish in tact. Remember to get underneath the extractor star. Better still, unscrew the ejctor rod and remove the star. Becarefull again because of springs. Keep bronze brushes for chambers and bore. Use bog standard bore cleaners on these. Make sure leading is removed if there, around the cylinder throats and the forcing cone.

Inside of the cylinder window, particularly around the barrel extension, standing breach and cylinder hand window, again use wad and brush soaked in lighter fluid. The remainder of the exterior again, lighter fluid and elbow grease.

The only place that this should need oil will be on the cylinder arbour.

[HALODIN]

Thanks to all the suggestions, I've managed to get the outside looking pretty reasonable, but the cylinder is still gummed up which I think was the real issue not the action. The cylinder is enjoying a frog lube bath at the moment and either way it will be fine to shoot tonight.

Thanks for your reply specifically Sim, I'll break it down and give it a lighter fluid bath as per your instructions over the weekend, it definitely still needs a deep clean.

Thanks again all!

Cheers,

Craig.

[HALODIN]

Just had a slight problem, I was cleaning the cylinder when it fell out. I undid the screw on the right of the frame afterwards, but I'm not sure where the small black piece (far right) is supposed to go back in to.

The pieces came out as they're shown in the photo and I would guess the small black pointed bit of metal is supposed to be put in before the screw on the right hand side, once it's all back together again. It looks like it should go pointy bit down to locate and hold the yoke. Is that right? I can't find an exploded diagram that shows how it's supposed to go back together.

[HALODIN]

All sorted I think. The screw on the right is hollow and the black pin fits in perfectly, so I think it just fell through and came out of the wrong hole. It's back together and the cylinder indexes fine, so look OK now.

[Explosive]

Do you have to show that you have knowledge of firearms before being granted a permit to own one in the UK ?

[HALODIN]

I can only assume you're trying to troll me, given how irrelevant your question appears to be. Why don't you chill out before you get banned.

Do you have to show that you have knowledge of firearms before being granted a permit to own one in the UK ?